Artificial grass looks finished and green in Riverside's heat, but what matters most happens underneath. The infill, base preparation, drainage system and finishing details determine whether your turf will last, drain properly, stay odor-free and look right for years. This guide walks you through the materials and methods that separate a durable installation from one that lifts at the seams, pools water or fails within a season.
Whether you are converting a dead Bermuda lawn, installing a pet area that can handle dogs and heat, or preparing a pool surround or patio, understanding infill options, base depth, compaction and seam work helps you ask the right questions and verify that any installer (including us) has the knowledge to build it right. We have included the written specification checklist you should demand before work begins.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material that sits on top of and between the synthetic grass fibres. It serves multiple purposes: it weighs the turf down so it stays in place, it props the fibres upright so they look full and natural, it protects the backing from UV damage, and it plays a role in drainage and odor control. There are several families of infill, each suited to different uses and budgets.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is a ballast that does the basic job of holding turf in place and keeping fibres standing. Standard silica is angular and dense. Coated sand is silica that has been rounded and often colored or treated with a polymer coating. Rounded grains are gentler on the backing and move less underfoot, and coated versions reduce dust and can add visual warmth to the turf. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odors, making it popular in pet areas and dog runs. It is lighter than sand and often blended with sand to balance cost and odor control. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills (such as Envirofill, which is a material we can source) are engineered to inhibit bacterial growth and reduce surface temperature in extreme heat. These products are more expensive but valued in high-traffic pet areas and climates where heat is a concern.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire crumb) is an infill used mainly in sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption matters. It is not typically used in residential yards because it retains heat, can leach odor, and requires more frequent maintenance. When you receive a quote, always ask which infill is specified and in what amount, and request it in writing.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is specified in pounds per square foot (psf). The amount varies depending on the turf product, pile height, face weight and intended use, but typical residential installations call for 1.5 to 2.5 psf of infill, while pet areas and play spaces may need 2 to 3 psf or more. The infill props the fibres upright, fills the gaps between them, protects the backing from ultraviolet light, adds weight to keep the turf from moving, and supports drainage by allowing water to flow through the granules and down to the base. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by budget installers: the turf looks thin, the backing deteriorates faster in the sun, the fibres mat down, and odor can develop in pet areas because urine pools rather than draining through.
The right amount of infill for your project depends on the specific turf product, the climate, the foot traffic and whether pets will use the area. Rather than trusting a generic estimate, ask any installer to measure your space and specify the exact infill type and amount in writing before the job begins. This number should appear on your written specification alongside the turf product name, face weight and pile height. If an installer cannot or will not provide this detail in advance, it is a sign that the job is not being planned with care.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under artificial grass must be built from the ground up to support the turf, control water and prevent weeds. The first step is always removal: the existing lawn (whether dead Bermuda or living grass), old turf if there is any, and the root mat must come out. This is not optional. Roots left in place will decompose, creating voids that cause the turf to settle unevenly and trap odor.
After removal, the ground is excavated to the depth needed for the base material (typically three to four inches in Riverside). The excavated area is then graded so water runs away from the house and any pool or patio, not toward them. A weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the infill. Some installations skip this step to save money, but weeds will emerge within a season or two and are difficult to remove once the turf is down. Next comes the base layer: decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread and compacted in lifts (two-inch layers) with a plate compactor. This base must be firm and level; an uncompacted base causes dips, puddles and standing water that leads to odor and turf failure.
For patios, balconies, and hard surfaces, the turf cannot be laid directly on concrete or pavers because water will pool underneath. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is laid first. This creates an air gap and channels water to the edges. For pet areas, an underlay also helps with drainage and odor control. On a balcony or rooftop, edge drainage (a channel or gutter at the perimeter) must be installed so water does not collect at the edges or leak onto the level below. The turf is then laid over the underlay, never glued flat to a hard surface.
Base Prep on Riverside Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Riverside's soils are varied: areas near the Santa Ana River tend toward clay and silt, the foothills and older neighborhoods have sandy or decomposed granite soils, and some yards have compacted clay or hardpan that sheds water instead of draining it. Regardless of soil type, artificial grass needs a stable, free-draining base to perform well. If the existing soil is clay, holds water, or is compacted, it must be excavated and replaced with a material that drains freely.
The excavation depth is typically three to four inches. The area is graded to slope gently away from the house and any pool or covered patio, so water runs off rather than pooling. The base material (decomposed granite or crushed rock, sometimes called crushed base or road base) is spread in two-inch lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each lift. Proper compaction is critical: an uncompacted base allows the turf to settle, creating dips and soft spots where water collects, odor builds, and the infill migrates. A compacted base stays level and firm underfoot, and water drains through it quickly.
Before excavation begins, it is wise to request a California 811 utility locate to mark buried electric, gas, water and sewer lines. This is a free call and protects you from hitting a line. Note that 811 does not mark private lines such as irrigation, low-voltage lighting or pet-fence wires, so if you know these are present, mark them or flag them for the crew. If your yard has a history of water problems, standing water, or poor drainage, the base preparation is where that problem must be solved. If the site has a serious drainage issue that cannot be corrected with grading and base material alone, we will recommend a solution or decline the job rather than install turf that will fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass itself is designed to drain. The backing (the underside of the turf) is either perforated (punched with small holes) or fully permeable (a woven or nonwoven fabric that allows water through). Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (gph/sf). A typical residential turf drains at 15 to 30 gph/sf, while sports or high-traffic turfs may drain faster. The faster the drainage rate, the quicker water passes through the infill and backing and into the base. However, a fast-draining turf still fails if the base underneath does not drain: water backed up in the base will wick back into the turf and create soft spots, odor and algae.
In pet areas and play spaces, drainage is tested hard. Urine, rain and regular hosing all add water volume quickly. A turf with a slow drainage rate or a backing that is not truly permeable will hold moisture, trap odor, and allow bacteria to grow. For these uses, a fully permeable backing and a fast drainage rate are worth the extra cost. On patios, balconies and hard surfaces, an underlay or drainage pad is essential. This is a thin layer of open-cell foam or a perforated mat that sits between the hard surface and the turf, creating an air space and channeling water to the edges. Without an underlay on a hard surface, water pools under the turf and cannot escape.
When you receive a quote, ask for the drainage rate of the turf in writing. Do not accept vague promises that it "drains well." A number (for example, 20 gph/sf) tells you what to expect. If the site has heavy clay or poor drainage, the base preparation is more important than the turf itself: a well-compacted, properly graded base of crushed rock will solve the problem. If the base is poor, no turf will perform.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a rushed one. Seams are where two pieces of turf meet. A proper seam is joined with seam tape (a adhesive-backed strip) and turf adhesive, with the pile grain aligned so the seam is nearly invisible. The tape is pressed firmly into place and the adhesive is allowed to cure before the area is walked on. A visible seam, a seam that lifts or peels, or a seam where the grain does not match tells you the work was not done carefully. Seams can also fail if the base underneath is not level or if the turf was laid before the adhesive cured.
Nails or staples hold the turf at the perimeter and at seams. They must be spaced correctly (typically 12 to 18 inches apart) and driven flush so they do not catch a foot or catch moisture that causes rust. Edging is the final perimeter detail. The turf is trimmed to fit tight to pavers, a pool deck, or a cool deck, and then secured with bender board (a flexible metal or plastic strip) or a secured edge detail that keeps the turf from rolling or lifting. A lifted edge at a patio or pool surround is not just a cosmetic flaw: it catches water, traps debris, and allows the turf to move and separate.
Power brooming is the last step. A power broom or stiff broom is used to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. This makes the turf look full and natural and ensures the infill is distributed so no areas are under-filled. If you visit a finished installation and the turf looks matted, the infill is clumpy, or the seams are visible, these are signs the finishing work was not done well. Ask to see photos of finished work before you commit, and ask what the warranty covers (typically workmanship for one to three years).
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that details exactly what will be installed and how. This document protects you by creating a clear agreement about materials and methods. A complete spec should include the following items: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon); the face weight (the weight of fibre per square yard, measured in ounces); the pile height (the length of the fibre, typically 1.25 to 2.5 inches); the backing type and drainage rate (for example, perforated polypropylene at 20 gph/sf); the infill type and amount (for example, 2 psf of coated sand, or 1.5 psf of zeolite blend); the base depth, base material and compaction method (for example, 3.5 inches of compacted crushed rock); the weed barrier (yes or no); the seam method (tape and adhesive); the edging detail (bender board, concrete edge, etc.); and cleanup and haul-off of old turf and soil. The spec should also state the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years from installation).
This written spec is your assurance that the installer understands the job and has planned it. It also gives you something to compare if you are getting quotes from multiple installers. If an installer cannot provide a detailed written specification before the work begins, that is a warning sign. We measure every site carefully and provide a written spec with the free estimate. For more information about pricing and how we structure our quotes, visit our pricing page. If you have questions about any of these details or want to discuss your specific project, call us at (951) 783-3353 or request a free estimate and we will visit your site, measure, and provide a full specification in writing.